As Autumn is in full swing, I am taking particular comfort in finding all sorts of 'wild' seasonal fruits making an appearance at my local farmers market. Crab apples used to be the missile of choice when I was a naughty kid, flung at great speed from the end of a willow branch. Now of course I am marginally more respectable in my old age, so have better uses for these brightly coloured litle bombs of sourness. The obvious choice is a jelly, but flavoured with Spruce needles, used in a similar way to rosemary. What are also quite delicious are rowanberries, either as a subsitute or addition to the sour, fragrant, balsamic jelly. Once made, the jelly is particularly good accompaniment with game - pheasant and venison are good choices - (both on the side or used to glaze a suace or gravy), but is also delicious with mackerel, used as a glaze before roasting or grilling.